Monday, May 9, 2011

Hope and Disappointment

UPDATE: Due to a few worrying responses to this post, I feel compelled to clear a few things up:

"I have to emphasize to you that Palestinians aren't close minded. Neither are Muslims. Most folks are open minded, accepting people. You have to understand where I was. Try going to hicksville Iowa and telling them you're Iranian. Or even Jewish. Or that you think women can do anything. You'll get the same response. It's not as easy as "Islam is closed minded". That's not true. Each society has its liberals and conservatives. Hell, the tea party in America has become a mainstream political movement, and is trying to tell us that Islam equates terrorism, that being gay is a choice, and that evolution isn't real. You have to understand that I was dealing with the same segment of society. The majority of Palestinians aren't like that. And no, Islam is not close minded, and it is not a fundamental Palestinian belief. I think you will find that very religious Jews are just as closed minded as very religious Muslims. Very religious Christians are just as closed-minded as the other two. I just happened to be dealing with those religious folks, that's all."


Okay, just wanted to clear that up, now on to the post.....

As I said before, my English classes in Jenin were a great forum for exploring what various Palestinian young think about a variety of issues. My classes were "conversational English" classes, so my goal was really to get them to talk as much as possible. Fortunately for me, the only topics that would convince everyone to talk were really controversial topics like the conflict, gender relations, religion, etc...The classes gave me a small window into what some Palestinians (albeit the more conservative ones) think about life. Unfortunately, I was disappointed by some of the things I heard last week.

In one of my classes a while back, I brought up the issue that in France, signs if religion are not allowed in public schools. Muslim women can't wear the hijab, Jews can't wear yarmulkes, you can't have a visible cross necklace, etc...I asked them what they thought. Not surprisingly, they said it was awful. They said it was horrible, unthinkable, outrageous. I asked why. They said because its their culture, their religion. They have to show their religion. Besides which, they said, people should be free to do what they want. If people want to express their religion in public schools, they should be able to. I agreed. However, I said, there is one thing we have to understand. A huge part of French culture is Secularism. It's an insanely ingrained part of their culture. Religion should not be shown in public. In French society, religion is generally a private affair. I don't necessarily agree with their policy, but I know that the French are not huge fans of public displays of religion because of their unique history and experience. 

The class wasn't so keen on my argument. I tried to explain it in a way they would understand. I said "Look, in the U.S., in the summertime, women don't dress like they do here. They wear real short shorts, tight shirts, and flip flops." The reaction was ridiculous. "Outrageous, its like their naked...." I asked what they would think if a girl was walking down the street outside like that, and they said it would be "unacceptable". When I asked why, the general answer was "It's part of our culture". I said exactly, your culture is such that it is not appropriate for women to walk around like that. Similarly, French culture is such that outward shows of religion are not really that acceptable. They value being very secular. They value separating religion and public life. One guy in class said "You can't do that. You can't separate religion and public life". I said no, you can't do that. It doesn't mean other people or other cultures can't. He then started to tell me that secular countries in the west that separate religion and government have little morals, and that they are bad people. I asked him if he thought I was a bad person. Of course he said no, but I kept pressing, "Then what do you mean?" One girl jumped in, and started to tell me that in Mohammad's time, in Islamic societies, there no crime. Literally, no crime whatsoever. Needless to say I was incredulous. She said that there was crime now because people have strayed from Islam. Right.

It's not that I blame them for disagreeing with me. It's not that I dislike the fact that they feel differently than I do. On the contrary, I totally understand why we feel differently. What disappointed me is that they were not willing to believe that people could live differently and still be good people. They weren't willing to accept that we could choose to live a different way and still be nice, kind, ethical people. That is why I was upset. They understood that different cultures existed, and people acted differently because of that, but they weren't willing to accept that difference.

In another class, we were talking about the conflict, and eventually, talk got to religion. The class asked me what my religion was. I tried to skirt the question, but they kept pressing. I eventually said "I don't have a religion". Then they asked, "Do you believe in God?" Again, I tried to skirt the question. I ended up saying "It's questionable". Shocked, one of the kids asked me "So what do you think happens when we die? Nothing?" I said I don't know, maybe we just die and nothing happens. All of a sudden, this kid starts preaching to me. He starts telling me about how the angel Gabriel brought the word of God to Mohammad, and what he told him, etc...I asked to him to please stop. I said I know the story, and I don't really want to hear it. He said "You don't understand. It's my job to tell you the truth, and then you can decide". I very politely said thank you, but no, it is my job to find the truth for myself. He said that it is part of their culture, that they should talk about the word of God to others. I said that although I understand, I would appreciate it if he respected my culture as well, and not preach to me. I tried to explain that truth is subjective (i had to explain the word "subjective"), and that other people might have other "truths". I said that although he might believe something is "the truth", someone else might not think that, and that's okay. I asked, "what if I said I was Christian. Or Jewish? Would you say I was wrong? That my "truth" was wrong?" It's okay to believe what you believe, but it's not okay to think others are always and totally wrong. After that some girl said "I will tell you a story". It was a story about this Jewish kid who would always go to a store owned my a Muslim man, buy a comic book, and steal a piece of candy. One day, the kid forgot to steal a piece of candy, and the store owner ran after him, giving him his daily piece of candy. After that, the kid would always go and talk to the shopkeeper. Every time, he had a problem, he would talk to the shop keeper, and he would pull out a book, read it, and give him an answer the his problem (I think you know where this story is going). One day the old man dies, and his brother gives the Jewish kid his book. Lo and behold, it ends up being the Qur'an (who would've guessed).

Look, I try my hardest to be 'culturally relative' here. I know that folks here come from a different culture, a different history, and live in a different environment. I understand that they think differently, that religion affects their lives in a different way than it does mine. I know that, and I am accepting of that. I am accepting of the fact that the disagree with what I think. That's okay. However, at some point I have to stop and say "No. That's fucked up. I think you are straight up wrong." And that point comes when folks here are not accepting of other cultures. Or when they say that "women can't be judges because they can't make decisions well". I have to fundamentally disagree with that. There is no "understanding that they have a different culture" here, I have to admit that I think it's simply fucked up and ignorant. I have specific values, but I also strongly value tolerance, and most of all, pluralism. I have to admit that as culturally relative as I try to be, I find myself thinking that I fundamentally disagree with some of the people here. I am able to be accepting of people totally different from me, and some of the folks here are not.

But there are reasons to be hopeful. In another class, we were talking about euthanasia. Most people disagreed with euthanasia. But I asked whether they thought it should be illegal. One guy said yes, it should. I asked why, and he said that because Allah says that you cannot take a life, that "our religion" says so. I asked "but should that be the law of Palestine, because Islam says so?". He said yes, we are a "Muslim" land. Immediately, everyone else in class disagreed. They said no, this is not a Muslim land. They emphasized that even in the Qur'an it says that this is a Muslim, Christian, and Jewish land.

They guy said that well, the majority are Muslim, and there are certain Palestinian traditions that should be respected because of that. I asked "what about Palestinian Christians? They are a pretty sizable minority. There are people who call themselves Palestinian, but are not Muslim. What about them?" The guy said that yes, there are Christians, but since Palestine is mostly Muslim, it should be a "Muslim" country. Again, everyone else in class disagreed. They said yes, Christians are also Palestinians. They emphasized that there are also Jews in Palestine, and they are also Palestinians. They said that Palestine is not just Muslim land, but it is holy to three religions. It is accommodating to three religions. I found that very nice. Not everyone here is closed minded or absolutist, just some people are. The majority of people, and in fact the majority of my classes, felt this same way.

Another thing I have found particularly hopeful here is that no one ever says anything disparaging about Jews. People may hate Israelis, but no one hates Jews. In fact, when talking to me about the conflict, most people specifically delineate between Jews and Israelis. I have hear one, just one negative comment about Jews my entire time here. People emphasize that they do not hate Jews here, they just hate the Israeli occupation. I greatly appreciate that.

Basically, my biggest cause for hope is that Palestine is not the "Palestine" you hear about in the papers, or on television. People here are like people everywhere else. They want to get an education, succeed, have families, and be happy. It's very, very safe here. I have never felt unsafe in my time here. In fact, I have felt more unsafe walking around certain neighborhoods in L.A. than I have ever felt here. People are extremely welcoming and friendly. As soon as people find out I'm American (which is inevitable because my accent when I speak Arabic is terrible), they bend over backwards to help me out. Taxi drivers are super nice to me and help figure out where to go. I've had people walk blocks with me when I ask them for directions. Super nice, super friendly people. You can be assured of that. All we hear about Palestine in the west is the conflict. Daily life is not news, but fighting is. Palestinians are extremely friendly people. They are also very trusting people. A couple weeks ago, I took my clothes to a dry cleaners to be washed. When I picked them up, I didn't have enough money to pay for it. First that man offered me my clothes for free, but I refused. Then he gave me my clothes, and said "Don't worry about it. Come back later and give me the money. Come back tomorrow or the next day, whenever you have time." And I left with my clothes.

Palestine is a beautiful place, with beautiful people. Trust me, there is nothing to be afraid of. 

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Jenin

Jenin is a funny kind of place. When I look out from the roof of the apartment where I live, it kind of looks like Los Angeles. There are hillside homes, and lights sprawling out into the distance. Except that those sprawling lights are often Israeli settlements. That’s what makes this place so weird. When you look out from a high place, you can see Israel. You can see the wall. You can see disputed borders and disputed territory.

Jenin is a pretty small town. It has a population of maybe 50,000 people. It’s not very big. It’s generally a farming town. The center of town is a 4 block by 6 block area of very dense population. Most buildings are 4 or 5 stories, with shops on the bottom and either apartments or offices on top. The streets are narrow and crowded. There are sidewalks, but for some reason no one uses them. The streets are packed with pedestrians, cars, tractors, shepards and their big herds of sheep and goats, and sometimes horses and camels all jockeying for space. It’s weird. Even when you walk away from the center of town, the buildings still tend to be a few stories high, with shops on the bottom and apartments on top. Space is very limited here, so you have to make good use of it.

Jenin is a “city” mostly because it acts as a center of commerce rather than a center of population. I would say the population triples during the day. There are tons of people rushing in every which direction, going work, school, or running errands. But at night everyone goes back to their homes in the surrounding towns, and the city is dead. I mean, totally dead. Nothing goes on here at nighttime. There is zero nightlife, no one goes out. I rarely even see people walking around at nighttime. People go to their homes and stay there. Its very much an “early to bed, early to rise” kind of culture. The weekend here is Friday, and the city literally shuts off. Nothing is open, no one is around, and there is absolutely nothing to do. I find that really strange. Back in the states, people do any number of things on the weekend. Folks might go out, walk around, get lunch, whatever. People generally hang around town. No one does anything here. I guess folks just hang out at home. Thursday night is not happening either. Even though people have the next day off, nothing really goes on. There are no art museums or anything, there isn’t really any live music (certainly no bars), not much to do if you are tired of smoking hookah and drinking tea at one of the many hookah places. I also find this really strange. I mean, I get it, it’s an “Islamic” place, it’s traditional, conservative, etc…But Iran is twice as intense when it comes to Islam. The government there is “Islamic”. But I remember the nightlife raging in Iran. Everything- cafes. Hookah places, restaurants- was open well into the night, every night. The only exception here is if there is a Real Madrid vs. Barcelona match (both teams are very, very popular here. The city is virtually split along the lines of ‘Real fan’ and ‘Barca fan’). In that case, the cafes and hookah places stay open until the end of the game, which is usually around midnight. Afterwards, fans of the winning team generally get in their cars and drive around honking and waving that teams’ flag, or folks run around screaming and taunting fans of the opposing team. We always go to the ‘classico’ games. That’s really the only time there is nightlife here.

I wouldn’t really say there is a lot of public space here. There is no real park or open space in the center of the city. There are no squares with public spaces. There are no public benches or places to chill in public places. The only “park” type thing here is really more a ‘promenade’. It’s a 100 foot long walkway with some flowers and trees, a non-functioning fountain, and weird statue of a big white horse, and s few plastic tables and chairs, and that’s about it. During the day and on warm nights people hang out there smoking hookah and drinking tea, coffee (coffee is a popular beverage here well into the night), or juice. I wish I could take a picture of it, but it’s wedged in between the Palestinian security force base and the Jenin Governorate building, and you can’t really take pictures of government buildings here. I would get into big trouble if the police saw we taking pictures anywhere near the army base. I’ve already gotten hassled by the cops twice because I was taking pictures around town, and the police just happened to be somewhere within 50 feet of me. They hassle me, ask to see my pictures, and if there is nothing that they consider offensive or dangerous, they let me go. I asked one of my friends what that was all about. He said that they are afraid that I might be like a spy or something taking pictures of important places as reconnaissance. Whatever.

Everything here seems so….ancient. Something about this place seems so old and historical. Everything here is made out of this beige, yellowish limestone type material that makes all the buildings look aged. Even the new buildings look like they’ve been here for hundreds years. Everything looks the same. There is no architectural creativity or anything like that. Literally every single building is built out of this limestone material, is rectangular, and has a flat roof. There is no variety. The only variety you get is that some buildings have red-tiled roofs and some don’t. That’s about it. There is construction everywhere. Every direction you look, there is a building being built. I don’t know who it is being built for. Jenin is not going through a population boom or anything. You see a lot of half finished buildings here. The might have the basic structure, but no doors, windows, outside masonry, or a roof. That is a really common sight here. No one works on them. They just sit there. Sometime, you see folks living in the half-finished buildings that at least half roofs. Often, you might see people just hanging out in them smoking hookah, or using them as a place to dry their clothes, or other such random uses.

Imagine downtown L.A., but with less tall buildings (and certainly no glass), and a little but smaller. Now imagine that you drove to Silverlake, but Silverlake was a totally different town from where you were. That’s what its like here. As I said, most people who work here don’t live here. They live in one of the many nearby towns. They are pretty close together, but definitely different municipalities. There is nothing really in between these towns but farmland. This is a farming community. The big industries around here are agriculture and stone quarries. In most of the small towns, there is small “main” street with shops, cafes, etc., a couple mosques, and then farmland. Even in the small town, everything is dense. Everyone is packed together. The streets are tiny. Every car that passes by almost hits you, expertly missing you by and inch. In Qabathia, a nearby town where I have been several times, every two minutes you will fund yourself moving out of the way for a tractor. They are used as farm tools and transportation. In the small towns, sometimes you will see the odd red house, or purple house, but that is about it.

All in all, Jenin is a pretty normal, unremarkable place. It’s a small agricultural town that happens to be strangely dense and bustling for its size. But it’s rather beautiful. Jenin lies in a valley. At this time of year, there is greenery all around. From the balcony of the office where I work, you can see several small town, tons of farms, and Israel in the distance. The countryside is gorgeous. Life can be nice here (I mean, except for the no nightlife, no scene of any kind, no alcohol, little interaction with women, etc etc etc…..). It’s normal, but that’s what I like about it. I feel that being here, versus anywhere else in Palestine, has enhanced my experience. If I was in Ramallah, I wouldn’t have had the same cultural experience as I did here. There are a lot of westerners in Ramallah. I would probably hang out with other Americans or Europeans. But in Jenin there aren’t really any other foreigners. I eat, work with, and chill with friends I met here. I meet young Palestinian folks and see how they live and what normal life is like here. That’s what is special about Jenin. Its relative normalcy provides me with the opportunity to really get a taste of what Palestinian culture and life is all about, and that is what I have appreciated most about my journey here.