Getting There

Getting to Palestine was a journey in itself. At check in at El Al, even before you check your bag, the questioning begins. I must say their brash demeanor left me with a very sour taste. Never before have I had my identity so questioned and judged as at El Al security. They have to qualms racially profiling the shit out of you. Even though my passport clearly says "Born in California, USA", they took one look at my name and asked where my family was from. When I said Iran, their interest was peaked. "Why do you want to visit Israel?, "What is the purpose of your trip?", "What are you going to do there?", "Are you Jewish? How do you celebrate passover?", "The last time you were at synogauge was Yom Kippur? Why? You should go more", "What is your tattoo? Why do you have a tattoo of the Iranian flag? Does taht mean you are supportive of the Iranian government?". They questioned me hardcore. Everything about me was questioned and judged against the norms of their society. They even brought in their supervisor to question me some more. At the gate before boarding the plane, I got the same treatment. And at passport control at Tel Aviv-Yafo, the same thing. I understand that Israel needs to be tight and vigilant about its security, but I do not like being treated like a criminal, nor do I enjoy having everying about my identity questioned.

After two bus trips, one from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem, and from Jerusalem to Ramallah, I finally arrived in Palestine. Ramallh is supposed to be the cultural and cosmopolitan capital, but I would be hard pressed to point out the nice parts of town. While driving around, what I noticed about Palestine as a whole is the frequency with which you see rubble and garbage strewn about everywhere. We talk a big game about "blight" in the US, but I didn't really understand what that word really meant until I got here. Blight is a state where everything around you is so fucked up that it is impossible to feel happy about or take pride in where you live. Blight is oppressive. There is graffiti everywhere, usually about the conflict, and less often about Fatah and Hamas.

In Ramallh I met a guy who is working as a civil lawyer. I aksed him if he was optimistic about finding a solution the the conflict. He said "which conflict?" He told me the he wasn't optimistic. He said that until Palestinians can solve their internal conflict (Fatah/Hamas), no solution would be forthcoming. But, as he said, "we hope".

Late last night I arrived in Jenin, where I will be teaching english for the next few months. Life is much more different here than I had originally imagined. Although the west bank is technically secular, alcohol is illegal, but obtainable if you try. The heavy majority of women cover their hair, and in Jenin, the few women that don't are looked at kind of funny. However, as I sit on the campus of the Arab American University, the frequency of women without a hijab is much greater.

I'm staying at an apartment with three students who go to the university, all in the IT field. I have to say, meeting these three young men has given me hope for the future of Palestine, even if the folks here don't have any. These kids are bright, dedicated, devoted to Palestine, and most importantly, non-violent. They all work on this open source internet programming project to open up internet access in Palestine. These kids, and many more like them, are all dedicated to the work of rebuilding their country. They recognize that to make any headway in the conflict, first Palestine needs to become a functioning, self-sufficient place. They realize that only with education will people have the knowledge and power to make desicions that will affect their homeland for the better. This at least gives me hope, and leaves me optimistic about the future of Israel/Palestine, and the rest of my stay here.

No pictures yet, but many are forthcoming.